Turned boot or shoe



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.

' G. N. HOYT.

. TURNED BOOT GR SHOE.

No. 311,003. Patented Jan. 20, 1-885.

WW H 6.

N. PETERS. Pholo-Lllhagmphcr. Wilshmgloll. n, c.

(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

v 0. N. HOYT. TURNED BOOT 0R SHOE.

No. 311,003. Patented Jan. 20,1885.

WITNESSES: Inn/Emm a t67 00dl 7gfl N PETERS. Phuln-tilhugmphen Wnshinghm. n. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFI E.

CHARLES N. HOYT, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS.

TURNED Boo-r OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION formingpart: of Letters Patent No. 311,003, dated January 20,1885.

' Application filed May 28, 1884. (No model To all whom) it may concern:

Be it known that 1, CHARLES N. HOYT, of

HaverhilL'in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain lmprovements in the Manufacture of Turned Boots or Shoes, ofwhich the following is a specification.

This invention has for its object to provide.

certain improvements in the manufacture of turned boots or shoes, whereby greater thickness and durability of bottom are secured with out material decrease of flexibility. and the bottom is enabled to be repaired more ad vantageouslythan heretofore.

Prior to this invention turned boots and shoes have been made invariably by stitching the edges of an upper .turned inside out to a single sole, which includes in one piece the heel and fore part, and then'turning the upper and sole right side out, the upper being entirely attached to the sole from the fore part to the 5 cessity of channeling and thereby weakening" the fore part of the sole, as heretofore, is obviated, and a thick and durable bottom is obt ained without making the turning operation: more difficult of accomplishment or injurious to the upper than is the case with a much thinher and less durable bottom under the old method of manufacture, as I will now proceed to describe.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure'l represents a longitudinal section of a shoe constructed after my improved method before it is removed from the last and turned. Fig. 2 represents a longitudinal section of the shoe after it is removed from the last and turned, but before the outer sole is secured. Fig. 3 represents a perspective view of the shoe in the condition shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 4 represents a perspective view of the shoe as completed by securing the outer sole to the inner sole. Figs. 5 and 6 represent perspective views of the outer and tuck soles alone. Figs. 7, 8, and 9 represent transverse sections of a boot or shoe,'showing different stages of the operation. Fig. 10 represent a top view of the same, the upper being partially broken away to show the inner sole. Fig. 11 represents a section on line a: m, Fig. 10.

The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the figures.

In the drawings 1 have shown different modes of operation whereby aturned shoe embodying my invention may be produced, and will first describe that shown in Figs. 1, 2. 3, 4, 5, and 6. I first take a full sole, a, which subsequently forms the outer sole of my improved turned shoe, and channel or split the edgeof the same, for the attachment of the upper, from the shank at one side around the heel to a point in the. shank opposite the starting-point, leaving the fore part of the sole nnchanneled, as shown in Fig. 6. I then take a halt'sole, b, which I term a tuck sole, corresponding to the unchanneled fore part of the sole 0, and channel said tuck-sole in the same manner around its entire margin. The sole a is then placed on a last with its inner side out, and the tuck-sole b is placed upon it, as shown in Fig. 1, the channel of the tuc'ksole forming a continuation of that of the rear portion of the sole (1. The upper is then placed in position in the slits or channels formed by splitting the margin of the outer and tuck soles. and secured to the flaps formed on the inner sides of said soles, either by hand or by a suitable sewing-machine, leaving the forward part of the sole a entirely free. The shoe is then removed from the last and turned, the loose condition of the forward part of the sole a enabling the turning operation to be performed with comparative ease. The shoe is now in the condition shown in Figs. 3 and 4, the outer sole being attached'at its rear and loose at its front part, while the tuck-sole is fully attached, The final. operation is the attachment of the front part of the outer sole to the tuck-sole outside of the upper. This may be effected by stitching with a fairstitch machine or by any other suitable means. It will be seen that a turned shoe having a double sole at the fore part is thus produced, the entire thickness of the sole mat the fore part being preserved,instead of being practically reduced by channeling, as heretofore. The flap formed by splitting or channeling the tucksole overlaps that formed by channeling the "outer sole, thus giving strength at the shank,

where said flaps overlap. The tuck-sole may be secured to the upper by nails or equivalent metal fastening driven before the shoe is turned, and clinched upon a metal plate temporarily interposed for this purpose between the sole 0, and the tuck-sole, the clinched points being on the surface of the tuck-sole that is covered by the outer sole in the completed shoe, so that they cannot work upwardly and injure the foot, the heads of the nails lying smoothly on the top surface of the tuck-sole and making no protuberances. The flexibility of the connection afforded by nails is about equal to that affored by waxed thread, while the durability is much greater. The sole a in this case is channeled and attached to the upper, as already described. In sewed shoes, the sole or may be channeled and attached to the upper in the same manner that therear part of the sole of an ordinary-turned shoe is channeled and attachedviz., by cutting into the sole from one side diagonally toward the margin and stitching the edge of the upper in said channel, as shown in Fig. 10, the line of stitches being indicated by s. In asewed shoe the tuck-sole may also be channeled and attached to the upper in the same manner that the fore part of the sole of an ordinary turned shoe is channeled and attached.

- In producing the shoe, as illustrated in Figs. 7, 8, 9, l0, and 11, the upper turned inside out is stitched in the ordinary manner to the grain side of the tuck-sole, the latter being channeled like the sole for an ordinary turned shoe.

The upper and tuck-sole'are then turned, as shown in Fig. 8, and the shoe is relasted, an inner sole, 0, extending either the entire length of the boot or shoe or from the heel through the shank. being placed on the bottom of the last. Before applying the inner sole its upper surface is channeled from the point a at or near the narrowest portion of the shank around the heel of the inner sole to the point b at the opposite edge of the shank. The edges of the upper are then temporarily se cured to the portion of the inner sole, extending beyond the tap or half sole toward the heel. An outer sole, a, extending the entire length of the shoe, is then attached to the outer edge of the tuck-sole, either by fair-stitches made by an ordinary fair-stitch machine or by hand, and to the upper and heel portion of the inner sole at the rear of the solemn by stitches formed in the above-mentioned chan nel by a McKay machine-orxotherwise, the inner sole being thus permanently connected at its heel portion to the rear end of the sole a.

The portion of the inner sole over the tap or in front of the shank is not attached at all, but is left free.

Either of the above-described methods enables a flexible, easy, and durable boot or shoe, closely resembling one wholly handmade, to be produced at a cost considerably less than that of hand-made work. The attachment of the inner sole to the bottom of the shoe only at the heel enhances the flexi bility of the fore part, and at the same time renders the inner sole sufficiently stable to enable a tap to be secured to it in repairing the boot or shoe. The channel formed in the upper surface of the inner sole enables the stitches connecting the outer sole. the upper and the inner sole, to be entirely concealed, so that the foot bearing surface is entirely smooth and devoid of fastening devices.

I claiml. A turned boot or shoe having a tucksole interposed between the fore part of the sole proper and the upper, to which the fore part of the upper is attached, as set forth.

2. A turned boot or shoe composed of an upper, a tuck-sole secured to the upper, and an outer sole secured at its rear part directly to the upper and at its fore part to the tucksole outside of the upper, as set forth.

3. In a turned boot or shoe, the combination of the upper. the outer sole, (1, channeled at its rear portion. the tuck-sole channeled in continuation of the channel in the outer sole and secured to the outer sole, as set forth.

4. A turned boot or shoe (301111.0l6d of an upper, a tuck-sole secured to the upper, and an outer sole securedto the tuck-sole outside of the upper, and an inner sole secured to the upper and outer sole at its heel or rear portion only, as set forth.

5. The method herein described of making turned boots or shoes, the same consisting in channeling an outer sole at its rear portion only, placing upon it a-tnck-sole having a channel forming a continuation of the channel of the outer sole, stitching the upper to the channeled part of the outer sole only, and to the tuck-sole forward of the channeled portion of the outer sole, turning the boot or shoe, and finally securing the outer sole to the tucksole, as set forth.

In testimony whereofI have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 22d day of May, 1884.

CHARLES N. HOYT.

V i tn esses:

O. F. BROWN, A. L. \VHITE.

IIO 

